Words by Vlad Tichen
A great wardrobe is not complete without good shirts. But once you build a quality selection, how do you make them last? Here are a few tips worth talking about.
How to store your shirts
The obvious and most optimal way to store your shirts is to have them hanging on a hanger. This will keep them from creasing in your wardrobe.
To maintain the structure of the collar, make sure to button up a couple of the top buttons on each shirt. If you don’t have much space in your closet, you could keep a few shirts on the same hanger, one on top of the other.
If there is no space at all and if you're not too fussed about having a few wrinkles, the next best thing would be having your shirts folded up on shelves.
How to avoid armpit staining on shirts
The yellow staining appearing in the armpit area of your shirts is a combination of aluminum-based antiperspirants and your sweat. If this happens, I suggest washing shirts straight after wearing them as the armpit stains are much harder to remove once they set in. Same way you deal with your shirt’s collar and cuffs, apply a stain remover spray to the area prior to washing. It would also be worth looking into finding a non-aluminium antiperspirant.
How to avoid fabric tearing
1. Wear-and-tear solution
Contrary to popular belief, a shirt that is made out of more expensive fabric might not serve you longer. It’s quite the opposite, actually - a thin premium poplin fabric shirt is more likely to wear down faster than your inexpensive, but sturdy button-down made out of thick oxford cotton. So my advice to those building up a long lasting shirt collection would be to find a few mid-weight cotton shirts with durability.
2. Occasional damage solution
I'm the first one to say that fit is the most important thing. But “well-tailored” doesn't necessarily mean “tight”. When getting a new shirt, make sure that while it's still fitted, it has enough room in the chest, armholes and around the waist. An easy way to check whether it works would be to try and lace up your shoes while having the shirt on - if it’s not uncomfortable and doesn’t pull badly around the armpits, it’s good to go.
How to give a second life to an old shirt
There are a few ways to up-cycle your old, but dearly loved shirt. If it’s a quality make, it might pay off to invest a bit of money into it.
For instance, if you notice that the cuffs and collar of your formal blue shirt has started fraying at the edges, you could replace them with a set of fresh white ones for that Wolf of Wall Street look.
Or if the shirt in question is a bit more casual, take it to a local tailor and ask them to remove the top part of the collar and cut its sleeves off. These simple alterations will turn your old, beaten-up shirt into a refreshed summer shirt complete with band collar and short sleeves.
What are you listening to right now?
We tend to have music playing in our house most of the time and this lockdown is no exception. Although there are some changes happening recently. Instead of the pleasant neo-soul and alternative r’n’b sounds that we’d usually have on the background (Sudan Archives, Kelsey Lou, Moses Sumney, Spellling, Sampha and the likes) these days we play not only oldies but goodies (The Doors, The Velvet Underground, The Beach Boys, Roxy Music), but also some gems from the late 70’s - early 80’s post-punk era - a bit more challenging Joy Division, The Cure, Japan, The Smiths. It’s good to revise these great bands once again and also give our kids a different perspective on what music could be.
What are you watching?
Again, with having a little more time on our hands, we finally turn our heads to the movies that we always wanted to rewatch. Natural Born Killers, Fight Club, The Dark Knight - these gloomy and dark films spark a great discussion, with the whole social dilemma to crack afterwards; what could be better? Oh yes, there’s also some time for the American version of The Office, too!
What are you reading?
I’ve just started Zuleikha, a book by Russian author Guzel Yahktina about the lives of various people struggling to survive in exile in Siberia from 1930 to 1946. This story is not only about the horrors of Soviet Russia that I never knew existed, but also about the human spirit, the struggle to survive and, ultimately, love. Not your light kind of reading, but an important one.
What are you wearing?
Those who know me well, know that I always wear a three-piece suit. But with the lockdown, the rules of the sartorial game have drastically changed. So instead of a three-piece suit I now wear a two-piece suit… A two-piece sweatsuit!
What form of exercise have you been doing?
Once the lockdown started a few weeks ago my wife and I realised that we’d outgrown the home training app we’ve been using before - a very nice Nike Training App (that is also free!). After doing some research, we decided to give this new Chris Hemsworth's fitness app Centr a go - and damn, it’s tough, but so good! They have some great high intensity interval training sessions, meditation and healthy recipes! What else could you wish for? So yes, every morning without fail, five days a week!
What have you been cooking? / Share a quick recipe
We love smoothies! My daughter 5yo Ivory and I have made a perfect one this very morning - Chocolate and Avocado! So easy and yum!
You'll need
Just throw everything into the blender and press the button! Enjoy!
Which local takeaway/cafe/restaurant are you eager to buy from when we move to Level 3?
Our local Browns Bay Fish’n’Chips shop, for sure. Need to balance out all that damn healthy food we’ve been eating!
What are you listening to right now?
I'm usually listening to Brazilian music and Brazilian YouTube lives. They're doing this to help fundraise for hospitals and people that need help. It usually cheers me up as Brazilian music is all about dancing and getting people pumped!
What are you watching?
I've watched an eclectic range of series that vary a lot in genre and storytelling.
The English Game, which is a story of soccer in England.
Madame C J Walker, which is a story of the first female African-American millionaire, and how she suffered a lot to get there.
And True Detective, a fictional detective series.
What are you wearing?
Usually jumpers and sweatpants but it depends on the weather. Sometimes I just wear sweatpants and no shirts.
What form of exercise have you been doing?
I’ve been running 3/4 times a week and working out from home with dumbbells.
What have you been cooking? / Share a quick recipe
Classic fish and chips and some Brazilian cuisine like “Feijoada” which is basically beans with different kinds of meat in it. You have to soak the beans in water overnight and then cook using a pressure cooker with all the meat you want to include. Once this is done we usually eat with rice and “farofa” (caçava flour). Feijaoda is amazing. Warning - it's a bit heavy, so sometimes it's my only meal of the day. Find the recipe here.
Which local takeaway/cafe/restaurant are you eager to buy from when we move to Level 3?
For takeaway and delivery I use Luk.App - it's been developed by friends of mine and they're now offering delivery and pickup on the app as well.
What are you listening to right now?
I’d love to say a meditation app but I’m blasting George FM from my Rova app on my UE Roll or headphones if I’m out for a walk. If it gets too much, I switch to George Chillsville, also on the app. On Saturdays I dance in my lounge to Nice’n’Urlich. I live alone, so no one criticises my moves!
What are you watching?
I’m binge watching Community on Netflix. It’s silly, easy and requires exactly zero brain power. My other faves of the same whimsical, witty genre are Schitt’s Creek, Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt, Special, Kim’s Convenience and Brooklyn Nine-Nine.
What are you reading?
I switch my brain on when it comes to reading. I’m currently reading the latest issue of Good magazine in my breaks during the day. At night I’m devouring an incredible book American Dirt by Jeanine Cummins about one middle-class Mexican woman’s journey to escape the drug cartels in Acapulco. It is profound, heartbreaking and utterly breathtaking. Everyone should read this book!
What are you wearing?
I support Kiwi brands as much as possible, so day in, day out at the moment I’m makeup free and am wearing Aim’n activewear - which I can hand on heart say I have never done in my life - along with my yummy Minnie Cooper mule slippers. Plus I just ordered a Huffer rain jacket so I can walk in the rain…. if it ever properly comes!
What form of exercise have you been doing?
Walking! Hours and hours of walking - around two hours a day. I live near Westhaven Marina and it’s been magical seeing the fish jump and swim in the shallow waters. Everyone keeps 2m apart and is biking, running, skateboarding, scootering or walking, like me.
What have you been cooking? / Share a quick recipe
I have the BEST recipe - I know because I adapted it myself - it’s my dairy-free, wheat-free Anzac Biscuits!
You'll need
Method
Enjoy!
Which local takeaway/cafe/restaurant are you eager to buy from when we move to Level 3?
I am excited to try Khu Khu Thai vegan restaurant on Ponsonby Road, which I wanted to get to before lockdown. And because supporting local, creative, small businesses is more important than ever, I won’t be supporting big franchises. New venture Eat Local NZ is an online ordering service for amazing Kiwi eateries that takes just 5% commission unlike Uber Eats, which takes 30%.
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Stick to routines
Start your day at your usual hour and stick to your more-or-less normal morning routine and rituals, or create new remote working ones (sans barista-made coffee). Avoid the onesies and PJs and opt for more ‘brunch casual’ to keep a semi-professional state of mind, particularly for work Zoom conference calls. And brush your teeth! These subtle actions will elevate productivity and future proof work habits.
Take breaks
To stay focussed, don’t work for hours on end. Instead break up a one hour time slot into 50 minutes with a 10 minute “break” (some people prefer 90 minute blocks). This can be a bathroom stop, filling up the water bottle, popping on the kettle, walking around the block and grabbing fresh air, breathing deeply, reading a magazine, picking feijoas or even standing up to watch a TEDTalk. Ideally, step away from the computer if you can to get the legs active.
Dr Habit, Dr Rebecca Stafford, says that setting an alarm in 50 minute increments stops procrastination and creates a sense of urgency for work tasks as the clock ticks down. Then your ten minute break becomes a deserved reward. Readdle Calendars can help map out your day.
Use productivity and team communication apps
Figure.NZ has been working as a remote business since February 2019 and its tips for teams working from home are tried and tested. Apps like Trello, Asana, Monday and Slack help teams communicate effectively and stick to tasks with no overlap, Shift helps productivity, and Harvest helps timing each task and tallying the week of work. Find more team productivity apps here.
Stay motivated
Use down time to stay motivated with podcasts like Stanford's Entrepreneurial Thought Leaders, Tim Ferriss, Mixergy, or RISE. Or websites like Masterclass and Unfiltered for access to some of the world’s best minds. Learn how to invent the next Allbirds or write a Dan Brown thriller. To avoid a rut, reach out to New Zealand small business experts on Manaaki - created to help people navigate Covid-19. And to follow global business and tech news as they navigate Coronavirus, sign up for The Hustle daily emails.
Get ergonomic
With no stairs to climb or meetings to go to, working from home is a largely static affair, so it’s time to get ergonomic. Reap the benefits of a standing desk by working at your kitchen bench or breakfast bar. If you sit at a desk or dining table, pay attention to ergonomics and posture that will support your spine, neck and wrists. Try sitting on a Swiss ball if you have one. And if you’re working with a laptop and monitor, raise your monitor on books and keep it an arm’s length away. It may be too late, but if you can whip into work and grab an office chair (and monitor), do it!
Set up a workspace
Ideally set up a dedicated work space to work at everyday (no couch or bed!) to support daily productivity and focus. Keep it clean and free from clutter and dirty dishes. Encourage few interruptions from your Bubble Buddies by setting boundaries. Leave your workstation at your usual hour and don’t let work time spill into family or personal time.
Switch off social media notifications
Limit social media to your ten minute breaks and switch off notifications on phone, laptop and tablets. Similarly with news. While it’s tempting to stay up to date, it’s a wormhole that could shave hours off your day and leave you feeling fearful and behind in work.
Keep active
If you exercise first thing or at the end of the day, stick to it. If you’re used to gyms or group exercise, there are hundreds of online workouts. Sign up to Les Mills On Demand, also playing on TVNZ On Demand, try a new yoga class, or F45 for free or a small fee. Your local trainers might be posting workouts for half price or koha too. Get outside to for a walk, run, stretch or yoga to soak up vitamin D. Track workout progress on apps like Map My Run.
Find the funny
Staying calm, positive, connected and focussing on the benefits of working from home over the weeks to come is crucial. Thankfully when we do allow ourselves some time online and on social media, we’ll find it awash with hilarious memes, quotes and videos. While this global pandemic is alarming, it’s proven to be fertile ground for the comedians among us. So tickle your funny bones, and take time out for a laugh.
Stay connected
Covid-19 is no barrier to Friday after work drinks by changing ‘social distancing’ to ‘distance socialising’. Join your friends on Zoom or a Google hangout to make Quarantinis and banter about the week that was. Glengarry and Premium Liquor are offering contact-free delivery services during lockdown too.
Keep calm
Being calm makes for better decision making, focus and restful sleep so now is the ideal time to introduce meditation into your day. Instead of going it alone, try using popular apps like Calm, The Mindfulness App, or Headspace.
Plus - keep the kids occupied with these 10 cool things for kids:
1. Sign up and practice science at home with Nanogirl’s Lab
2. Unleash your inner musician with Yousician
3. Have fun with these art and craft ideas from Kidspot
4. Discover dinosaurs and mummies at the Smithsonian
5. Try out PBS Kids, Funbrain or Education.com with 100s of learning games
6. Build kiddie financial literacy
7. Tune into live cams at San Diego Zoo
8. Enjoy museum and art gallery virtual tours
9. Revisit all the wacky and wonderful characters in David Walliams' books in The World of David Walliams
10. Get messy kneading this perfect sourdough recipe
Whatever you do, stay safe. Kia kaha everyone. And see you soon.
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Designer
Ex-creative director of the luxury menswear brand Ermenegildo Zegna, Stefano Pilati is rightfully considered as one of the masterminds behind the recent evolution of classic formalwear. With his influence, it is now changing from a very tailored (if not tight) uniform into a more relaxed and free-spirited version of formalwear. In his personal style as well, Stefano prefers a contemporary approach mixing classic tailoring with sports and casual wear, adding his very own air of nonchalant, relaxed style.
Actor
John Cho has a particularly 'cool young dad' vibe about him. Whether he’s wearing a structured coat with cropped trousers that show his bare ankles, a soft jersey two-piece suit paired with chunky white sneakers, or a sharp peak lapel suit and a plain tie, his style always appears simple, understated and tidy. We can relate to all the above because we're dads too, and easy, uncomplicated outfits means less time thinking about what to wear, more time having fun.
Actor
The star of Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them and one of the most dapper gentlemen in Hollywood, Eddie Redmayne is nailing it on the formal tailoring front. Chunky structured herringbone overcoats, proper navy blazers with patch pockets; we even spotted some world class layering as well as a seamless mixing of patterns and textures - he seems to have found his own signature style and is demonstrating it well. The cherry on top is that the man loves his ties and pocket squares and that’s a big tick in our books.
Model
What most people say about British male model David Gandy, is that he always looks good in everything. Although, we think that the pieces he chooses to wear, are in fact considered, and carefully hand-picked by his personal stylist Joe Ottaway.
He looks particularly good in a classic three-piece suit for instance. Or a military style casual jacket paired with a button-down shirt and a silk woven tie. Or a short suede jacket combined with a simple white t-shirt...we retract our previous statement, he does undoubtedly, look exceptional in everything.
Former professional footballer
David Beckham has been around for a long time and his style has evolved considerably over the years. He's made some questionable sartorial choices in the past, most noticeably in the 90’s, although we've chosen not to judge. Fast forward to today, he is now one of Britain’s most popular icons and on top of that, simply a very dapper gentleman.
One of the things we admire in David is that he loves to experiment. And though his style is constantly maturing, we think that the tailored look is one look he does strikingly well. He rocks a grey double-breasted suit with a caramel turtleneck to match his suit’s buttons. And his summer beige blazer and navy trouser combo - is the perfect outfit for the races. Our favourite look is when he wore a light double-breasted suit with a rare two by one button closure paired with a simple white t-shirt and white sneakers. The man sure knows a thing or two about sartorial balance.
Designer
Simon Porte Jacquemus, one of the most trendy womenswear designers out there, just launched his first menswear collection. And we love everything about it - the slouchy silhouettes, the sophisticated casual chic vibe. It is in a way, a representation of what the man himself prefers in his personal style - relaxed tailoring, pleated wide cropped trousers, oversized knitwear and perfectly imperfect styling - from the carelessly turned up sleeves of his raincoat worn over a simple suit to his own summer version of a parka jacket in beautiful cream cotton.
Actor
Looks, charisma, charm and style - is there anything Ryan Gosling doesn’t have? Here is an example of a man who truly has an effortless dress sense that never looks over styled or contrived.
His individualism has been demonstrated on a number of occasions, one notable instance, when he wore no tie to a black tie event, opting instead by buttoning up his stark white shirt and combining it with a shawl lapel dinner suit. Or when he made the book and glasses combo the hottest accessory of the season. We don’t quite know how he pulls it off, but we're glad he does, and does it well.
Actor
Jeff Goldblum, since when did he become such a style guru? He is 67 years young and his outfits continuously hit a home run. He wears things that a man half his age might struggle to carry off!
A cream turtleneck with white jeans and a khaki suede jacket. Zebra pattern shoes, houndstooth pants, polka dot shirt and a crocodile skin pattern tie - all in one outfit? We can only dream about pulling this off, but Jeff does it all with ease. Even when he wears an all-black outfit, he plays it up with different kinds of fabric, subtle textures and thoughtful layering. Our hats go off to him.
National treasure
We know, we're biased. But it’s our list. And we'll do what we want. Last but not least, we congratulate you, Taika Waititi! You are one of the coolest, funniest and nicest guys out there. We are proud to call you one of our own and love everything about you and your style - the pineapple jumpsuits, your shiny white sneakers and how gracefully you carry yourself around the red carpet!
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While a knees up is on the cards, the office code of conduct is probably relevant for work parties. RSVPing, turning up on time, making the effort to chat, no inappropriate behaviour and not overindulging in alcohol still applies. Not to say that your PG stand up comedy routine or beatbox duo with Gary is not welcome, just remember to respect the effort of the party planners, and feel the vibe before you take the literal or figurative stage.
The end of year celebration is an opportunity to welcome diversity into the workplace, which varies more or less depending on your team size. While end of year festivities may mean Christmas for some people, it may mean something different to others. This is why the phrase “Happy Holidays” is used as an inclusive greeting, which is also appropriate for multicultural New Zealand.
You’ll know based on your workplace, the standard of dress expected, which is the starting point for assessing your attire for end of year functions. Throw in variances of time of day, location, activities, themes and formality and either this becomes either clear as day ...or clear as mud. To make it easier, we’ve broken down the typical ways us Kiwis like to toast with colleagues at the end of the year.
During the day
Festivities held during the day are the epitome of Kiwi smart casual. We excel at this! The rule of thumb is if it’s taking place during office hours then ‘Casual Friday’ work attire is ideal. If it’s occupying off-the-clock weekend hours, then adding a degree of personal flair is welcome.
Think about what you’re going to do… is it a pub lunch, a boat on the harbour, or are you ziplining in Waiheke followed by a winery lunch and will need a change of clothes? Read the instructions and assess from there. Short-sleeved shirts or a tee paired with chinos or shorts, slides, possibly jandals, loafers or smart sneakers are acceptable. Linen is also a great go-to for smart casual day wear.
Cocktail parties and semi formal dinners
Dressing up is non-negotiable but there are plenty of ways to express your personality. For the gentlemen, it’s a variation of the suit with or without tie. Give the jeans a night off and don a long sleeved shirt tucked into chinos and add a belt. Otherwise get daring with a jacket and bold patterned shirt combo. Pair with Oxfords, brogues or loafers. Finally, add a pocket square for a pop of colour.
Themed celebrations
When party goers embrace a dress up theme wholeheartedly it makes for hilarious conversation starters with people at every level of an organisation. When the CFO is dressed as a 1920s gangster, barriers fly out the window!
The secret to ingenious costumes is planning as soon as the party date hits the calendar. Google search, use your imagination and ask around to create a costume that is not cheap and destined for landfill, but something creatively inspired and memorable for the right reasons. Remember too, this is a work party not a uni pub crawl, so avoid cultural appropriation, outfits that may be deemed insensitive or offensive, and inappropriate political statements.
Balls
Some workplaces see the year out in style with a ball. There’s no wriggle room for attire; this is dress to impress. A ball is the most formal of occasions. Some people will be comfortable wearing a full tux, others will be happier with complementary separates. Unless the event is explicitly ‘Black Tie’ a suit needn’t be black; it can be patterned, velvet or textured and matched with either a classic or contemporary shirt and cufflinks. Formal Oxford shoes are the finishing touch.
It’s time to celebrate the end of 2019. Whatever parties you attend, when you’re confident and comfortable in your carefully chosen ensemble, you’ll be ready to see the year out with a bang.
Shop our Festive Edit:
Metropolis Print available in Slim Fit, Classic and Super Slim.
Paradise Print available in Slim Fit, Classic and Super Slim.
Lindberg Check available in Slim Fit and Classic.
Mackelvie Check Pink available in Slim Fit and Classic.
Salo Print available in Slim Fit, Classic and Super Slim.
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The history of this classic garment is hard to unpick but while once an undergarment made from muslin, wool, flax linen, cotton and silk, it evolved to become a statement of wealth with moments of scandal along the way.
The Medieval chemise
The chemise, or smock, is said to have started in Europe around the 10th century and was worn loose as an undergarment by both men and women, yet little is known how this medieval must-have garment began.
By the 15th century the white chemise was part of custom Europe due to an intensification of cloth manufacture in France and Italy. It is likely however, that these first iterations made from handwoven cloth achieved no where near the softness of a dress shirt today.
Source of scandal
Looking around today it’s hard to believe that anything akin to the modern white dress shirt could have once caused a scandal. But in 1783, Marie Antoinette, patron of artist Madame Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, appeared on canvas painted by the artist wearing what is considered her muslin chemise undergarment, and all of society were shocked.
White collar “stiffs”
A century later as the industrial era was in full swing, while still considered an undergarment of sorts, these carefully handmade white shirts emerged as a statement of wealth worn by the elite and upper middle classes. This visible status symbol declared that its wearer had no fear of its crisp white fabric being sullied by oil, grease, dirt or coal from a hard day’s graft in the industry.
It also signified that a person in a white shirt had the means to have the garment washed, which 200 years ago was not without significant effort.
This was when the term ‘white collar’ emerged denoting social distinction based on how someone earned their wage. It’s said that the wording came from disgruntled working class men who resented the “white collar stiffs”, and was later followed by the term, ‘blue collar’ for working class people.
To look “down one’s nose”
As if the white shirt was not enough distinction of rank, during the Victorian era this emblem of wealth, still worn as an undergarment, was hidden under waist coats, jackets and coats.
Detachable collar and cuffs worn by many at the time however adorned the shirt as it slowly transitioned to the outerwear we know today. Quickly, the white shirt with its visible accessories became a symbol of masculinity, respectability and power.
The stiff, starched collars ensured its wearer held their head high, which separated them from clerical workers who were required to look right down in their roles, and therefore wore only utilitarian collarless shirts.
The stiffness of the detachable shirt collar meant the high collar-wearing elite couldn’t bend their heads downwards, so instead skimmed the tip of their nose or “looked down their nose” at others.
The 20th century
Women were not without their own white shirt evolution wearing white blouses as part of riding costumes in the 18th century that evolved into the lace and ruffle adorned shirtwaists blouses and puffed-sleeve blouses popular in the late Victorian era. By the start of the 20th century, the white blouse became a wardrobe staple of the middle classes throughout the austere Edwardian era.
By the mid-20th century, women started adopting the popular “masculine” style garment. The mass-manufactured white shirt worn by men had exploded in terms of textiles, patterns and prints, polka dots and stripes, rayon, flannel and linen. And women wanted in.
While for men, the white shirt was compulsory professional office wear, women had to abide by other rules and notions of femininity. Screen stars Ava Gardner, Lauen Bacall, Katherine Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Twiggy and Diane Keaton bucked the trend and immortalised the white shirt trend for women.
Fast-forward to today, the white shirt is both legacy and normality, whether we wear ours with a nod to tradition or with individual modern style, we are buttoning into a rich slice of history that started a thousand years ago.
Shop the Nicholas Jermyn Essentials collection shirts:
Men's Fine Herringbone - Slim Fit - Double Cuff
Men's Royal Oxford - Slim Fit - Double Cuff
Men's Surrey Twill - Slim Fit - Single Cuff
Women's Luxury Herringbone - Single Cuff
Women's Mendel Plain - Single Cuff
Whether it’s an important business meeting, another day at the office, or a wedding, it really pays off to have that versatile selection of quality clothes.
#1: The Grey suit
A plain two-piece single-breasted wool suit is one of the pillars of your formal wardrobe. As for the fabric, we recommend finding an option with a bit of texture - in order to make it look more interesting without being too loud. Birdseye, for instance, is a good choice here.
#2: The Navy suit
A subtle herringbone fabric texture, formal dark colour and double-breasted style - let’s raise the sartorial stakes for the navy suit. Because, “essential” doesn’t necessarily mean “basic”.
#3: Formal shirts
A small collection of good quality formal shirts is a true necessity when we build a proper formal wardrobe. We recommend simple plain or micro-patterned fabric styles in white and blue, with structured collars. For the most formal occasions feel free to add a double-cuffed option or two to your more common single-cuffed selection. Try these options from the Nicholas Jermyn collection: the Herringbone Blue, Luxury Weave White, Miles Plain Blue, and the Fine Herringbone shirt in White.
#4: Black oxford shoes
When it comes to the most formal occasions, nothing beats a pair of well-polished black oxfords. Closed lacing, minimum details, good quality leather - this style is a must-have.
#5: Brown derby shoes
If you are planning to have a regular day at the office, brown derbies would work perfectly. With an open lace design, light colour and a slightly more casual appearance, this style is a great alternative to the more sombre black oxfords.
#6: Leather belts
Let’s add a couple of belts to match the shoes - one in black leather and one in brown. Go for a simple metal buckle and no excessive details. Take note that neither the leather type nor its colour need to match the shoe leather exactly. For instance, you could easily combine a mid-brown belt in grain-textured leather with your dark chocolate plain leather derbies.
#7: Ties
Your capsule tie collection can include a small selection of the most formal to the most casual. We picked the following: a plain silk navy tie, moss-green silk polka dot tie, a lightly-patterned glen check grey wool tie, and a silk burgundy tie with a bold paisley pattern.
#8: The Pocket square
Some might say that a pocket square is not essential to a gentleman’s wardrobe. However, we consider this accessory an invaluable addition to a formal look. Add a pinch of sophistication to your outfit by choosing a plain silk option, either in navy or burgundy.
#9: Cufflinks
One pair of cufflinks should be sufficient for all your double-cuffed shirts. Go for an interesting yet understated design, just like these Nicholas Jermyn Gunmetal Knot cufflinks (coming soon)
Nicholas Jermyn style advice
The great thing about having a couple of plain suits in grey and navy is that you’re easily able to wear them separately - a navy jacket goes perfectly well together with grey trousers and vice versa.
#10: The Blue blazer
A bit of structure is great for your blazer as it means you can wear it either with a t-shirt or with a tucked-in shirt. Blue is a good versatile colour that you’d be able to combine with pretty much everything. Having patch pockets would help to emphasise that this style doesn't necessarily mean business.
#11: Brown desert boots
Good leather, round toe, high quality make - do invest in your shoes; it will pay off in the long run.
#12: Knitwear
Your knitwear should be something you can easily throw on. We recommend a simple cardigan in a versatile moss-green colour. It is casual enough to wear unbuttoned with jeans, but would also work as a part of a smart outfit.
#13: Chinos
You can wear chinos almost anywhere. Stick to classic colours – just like the army green and tan options that we’ve picked here.
#14: Jeans
Jeans are perfect for more casual occasions. Just go with something simple – a slim-fit style in indigo would look smart with a blazer, casual with a jumper, and anywhere in between. And having a pair in mid-blue would simply give you more freedom in your style choices.
#15: Smart casual shirts
A proper smart casual shirt goes with everything from a blazer to jeans. Feel free to experiment with colours and patterns. We’ve picked a couple of fine patterned Nicholas Jermyn styles in blue and white (one checkered and one striped) as well as a plain lilac one. Because sometimes we all need that pop of colour in our lives.
#16: T-shirts
The right tee is the spine of your smart casual wardrobe. The key things to consider here are the style – generally, crewnecks are more versatile and flattering – and a good fit. Start with basic block colours - navy, grey, and white.
#17: White sneakers
Your sneakers must work equally well with your chinos and your jeans. So stick to something clean and simple. Good white leather trainers are the best option here as they’re fashionably acceptable everywhere - from a casual Friday at the office to a morning stroll, to your favourite coffee joint on a Sunday.
Shop the shirts featured in this article:
The Herringbone Blue - available in Classic, Slim Fit and Super Slim.
The Luxury Weave White - available in Classic, Slim Fit and Super Slim.
The Miles Plain Blue - available in Classic and Slim Fit.
The Fine Herringbone in White - available in Classic and Slim Fit.
The Carson Stripe - available in Classic and Super Slim.
The Bauer Herringbone - available in Classic and Slim Fit.
The Thompson Check - available in Classic and Slim Fit.
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Pick the most stunning (and the warmest!) destination, book your flights and accommodation, and we’ll help you with the next task: what to pack in your suitcase.
Think of your holiday clothes as a miniature capsule wardrobe. This will help you decide what to pack and, when you arrive, what to wear. Having classic pieces is always going to be the best bet as they’re tried and tested.
Go for paler shades and lighter materials. And add a pinch of bright colour, the main objective here is to make sure you feel cool, comfortable and stylish.
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Video credits: Mr Porter - 'How to tie' series / Ties.com - 'How to tie a Perfect Simple Knot'
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For Jonah, winner of our recent Man Makeover competition, getting a new look was more than just a bit of fun – it marked a turning point after an incredibly tough year.
Clothes may seem a frivolous thing to consider, but the truth is, the right wardrobe can affect your outlook, and perhaps more importantly, the way others see you. Once a first impression is formed, it rarely changes. That means whether you are in sitting in an office chair or on a bar stool clothes that contribute to your personal brand will create the best, most memorable first impression. Here’s how.
Send the right message
Begin by deciding just what that first impression should be. For instance, the personal brand of a fashion designer will be different from that of a builder. If you are in the fashion industry, you’ll be fully aware of the latest trends, and without being a slave to every change, you might give a subtle indication of your expertise in the clothes you wear.
Similarly, someone working in a trade will present a different appearance. While you might not go out every day wearing work shorts and steel-toed boots, as a builder you may want to create that smart, work-ready impression with a pair of good jeans and a button down shirt. Your own personal brand will define the message you send, and the impression you make.
Be consistent – be you
You don’t change radically from day to day, and neither should your clothes. Your personal brand is the same – a consistent message of confidence and professionalism in everything you do, and to everyone you meet. If you yourself were a company, you would not change your brand, your logo or your message each day. The consistency of your personal brand is part of what creates the best and most memorable first impression.
To establish for yourself what your personal brand is, consider carefully how you would describe it. Are you formal and polished, casual and quirky or somewhere in between? The descriptive words you choose for your personal brand should apply to every occasion, from attending an awards ceremony to going out for a morning jog.
Having established your personal brand, you will find it far simpler to choose clothes that reflect you, while being appropriate to the situation. When your wardrobe truly represents you and your personal brand, you will find that consistency and being yourself come naturally. You can focus fully on what you do, because you already know you are making the right impression.
Whatever you decide is your personal brand, here are some steps to take towards making that first impression the best it can be:
At the office – simple and understated
At work, age-appropriate understated elegance is the key. Unless your personal brand is about fun, colour, quirk or fashion-forward playfulness, these tips may help simplify things.
Choose one main colour for your suit – black, brown, tan, navy or grey – and purchase everything to complement that. This allows you to invest in fewer, higher quality pieces that will still give you a wider array of options to take you anywhere. Add personality and accent interesting shirts, ties, pocket squares, scarves or jewellery.
Rotate out the old
Fashions change, and just as you accept new technology, it is best to roll with subtle shifts in style. That may mean an update to slightly narrower ties, or new bright coloured socks. You should avoid worrying about every little fashion quirk and fad, but neither do you want your wardrobe to look dated.
When you do add a new garment to your wardrobe, remove an old one. That way, whatever you wear will be fresh, neat and fashionable. This is especially important for your casual wear – anything worn, frayed or stained will create an overall impression of messiness, detracting from your personal brand. Tuck the worn-out items away for gardening or painting, or donate, if there is still life in them.
Keep it tailored
Make sure your garments fit properly. Sagging and wrinkly clothes will overtake any other personal touches you’ve made. You don’t need to replace quality items if you have lost weight or built up muscle – a good tailor or alteration business can make your wardrobe fit, at much less cost.
Plan the night before
Choose what you want to wear the night before and set it out ready, so you avoid simply putting on the first thing you see. In the morning, this will leave time to groom and dress, and make those adjustments that enhance and complete your ensemble.
Research dress codes
When you have an important occasion coming up, it pays to plan your outfit ahead of time to avoid indecision and unmindful choices. Learn what level of formality is expected and select your clothes to suit. Keep in mind that while formal events demand dress formality, some less formal but equally special occasions – a congratulatory lunch, for instance – can be enhanced by dressier attire.
Keep a back-up dressy option handy
Even though your workplace dress code may normally be casual, it is always a good idea to keep a more formal outfit nearby. Having a complete outfit ready, can be mean you are prepared for anything.
If the adage is true that clothes make the man, then building a wardrobe that reflects your personal brand of professionalism and confidence is a must. You can establish that personal brand for yourself and for those around you, by the mindful way you dress for every occasion, formal or casual.
Start dressing in line with your personal brand now, and you will create successful and memorable first impressions that enhance your professional – and personal – life. Shop from our collection of men and women's clothing NZ.
Image credits / idleman.com
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You simply can’t go wrong with a good soft-shouldered navy blazer with patch pockets. It is one of those essential items in a wardrobe that allows one to seamlessly combine different pieces of clothing and elevate even the most casual look to an appropriate level of dressiness.
If you are aiming to create the best Smart Casual look, wear it with either beige, mid-blue, moss green or khaki chinos, soft cotton button-down shirts and a fancy cardigan. The blazer would work its magic, linking all the items of your outfit together, making you look like a style pro.
For more formal occasions, wear your blazer with smart wool trousers in either grey or brown, cutaway collar shirts, smart leather shoes and good quality ties.
Even the most casually looking outfit - a plain round neck t-shirt, simple classic jeans and a pair of white sneakers - would look smart and sophisticated once accompanied by a good navy blazer.
But what makes a good navy blazer? And how do you choose the right one? These days, with options being near countless, we urge you to follow the traditional way - look for a good fabric and a quality make. Yes, you pay more, but, as typical as it sounds, it's worth it.
Depending on the season and the occasion the fabric of choice could be either fine wool, cotton or linen. As for the construction, you’ll be able to find styles with a well-structured shoulder, soft ‘Italian’ shoulder, or without padding at all.
There are no strict rules or guidelines on how your navy blazer is supposed to look. But we would like to encourage you to choose a style of blazer that we consider the most appealing:
• Soft shoulder padding. It mustn’t be too constricting, but a good shape is important.
• Some structure in construction. Both half-lined and fully-lined versions are the right choice.
• Thin, good quality wool. This option is great for all-year-round wear.
• Plain fabric. It is preferable to be versatile. With that said, there is nothing wrong with the fabric having a bit of texture. Hopsack, for instance, would be a good choice as this fabric looks quite interesting without being too bold.
• Patch pockets. This element would bring a certain level of casualness into the mix, making the blazer look different to a suit jacket.
• Slightly shorter length. Again, its aim is to be a bit different compared to the formal look of a suit jacket.
• Elbow patches. This detail would add a bit of character and ruggedness to an otherwise refined look.
• Contrasting buttons. A touch of personality never hurt. A natural horn option in various colour ways would be our preference here.
For more advice on just the right navy blazer for your wardrobe, talk to the style experts at Nicholas Jermyn.
Image credits / hespokestyle.com
Image credits / hespokestyle.com, blueloafers.com, sartorialnotes.com, permanent style.com
Classic suit trousers have gone through countless style variations. They have been high-waisted, low-waisted, wide-legged to the floor, generous in the thigh but tapered at the ankle, or slim cut with a flared bottom.
More recent iterations have been low-waisted with a slim line in the leg, flat-fronted (without pleats), and plain from top to bottom. A smart look, but perhaps a touch unadventurous.
A recent change in a formal menswear landscape has added an exciting detail – it’s now official: classic trousers can be cuffed. This small detail can change the look of a pair of trousers considerably. A simple cuff puts more focus on your shoes (so they must be of good quality and well-polished) and improves the drape of the trousers. The extra weight of the cuff pulls the fabric straight, giving a sharper, more polished look
How to wear cuffed trousers:
Choose the right width
Your height determines your cuff width. The taller you are, the wider the cuff – but your cuff should still be 3-4.5cm. Your tailor should help you find the perfect balance.
Get the length right
Cuffed or not, trousers should rest on the shoe with only one break. This rule is even more important if your trousers are cuffed – the extra fabric of the cuff will make bunching far more obvious. While standing, ensure your trousers are sitting in a straight line along the back crease, with one fold along the front crease.
The reign of the skinny suit is finally over – its tight, low-waisted trousers, cropped jackets, high armholes and very slim lapels are slowly losing their grip on men’s fashion.
Many reputable classic menswear brands are introducing wider jacket lapels – not to the extremes of the 70s, but an elegant increase in width of two to three centimeters. This dramatically changes the visual perception, making the wearer’s chest look more prominent and defined, and slimming the waist.
How to wear wider lapels:
A wider lapel for a wider tie.
This is a matter of balance and symmetry – a wider lapel calls for more width in the tie. As an example, for a lapel width of 10 cm, opt for a tie width of about 8 cm at its widest point.
Peak lapel for formal looks.
A notch lapel is a go-to for corporate wear. For more refinement, a wider peak lapel jacket – the kind you would expect to see on a tuxedo jacket – looks more polished and interesting, while still staying within the bounds of classic formal wear.
The simplest way to make your corporate wardrobe work is to fill it with plain white and blue shirts and plain suits. It’s an almost go-to combination for a fuss-free outfit in the morning.
And for those who consider their workwear a uniform, there’s nothing more painful than choosing the most appropriate tie for the shirt and then trying to match it with a suit and shoes as well.
But while this utilitarian approach to formal wear simplifies the process, it lacks the opportunity for individuality. The answer is to introduce subtle patterns into shirts – while some brave sartorialists are opting for bold, large patterns, we consider micro-patterns to be more appropriate for office wear. They will blend seamlessly with even the most conservative range of suits and ties, while still offering a touch of character.
How to wear micro-patterns:
Make one of the three - plain.
Even with the tiniest of micro-pattern in the shirt, ensure you’ve matched it to a plain suit or your tie.
Colour matching.
To match colours, carefully study the micro-pattern. Your shirt will have a base colour – maybe blue or white. The pattern will be made up of other colours, perhaps brown and dark blue. Choose a tie that matches one of these colours, and ensure your suit and shoes are complementary too – brown shoes with navy, black shoes with greys.
Image credits / hespokestyle.com, blueloafers.com, soletopia.com, permanent style.com, greyfox.com
]]>Cleaning, storage, and consideration
Our simple suit care guidelines
Whether you wear one to work every day, or only bring it out for weddings and funerals, a suit should make you look polished and put together. It should fit you perfectly and hang beautifully. It should look crisp and fresh – not creased and misshapen.
Part of this comes from investing in a great suit in the first place, so it can last a lifetime. If you choose a suit that is well designed, properly constructed, and made of high-quality materials, it should help you look the part for years to come.
But choosing the right suit is not the only factor. Taking care of your investment is also essential. You can keep your suit in peak condition by storing it properly, cleaning it sparingly, and being mindful of how you wear it.
Read on for our top five suit-care rules:
1. Buy two pairs of trousers
Always buy a second pair of trousers when you purchase a suit, as they will generally wear out more quickly than the jacket. Trousers are made of the same fabric as the jacket, but are subjected to more movement, more contact with surfaces, and are often worn without the jacket for at least part of each day.
Buying a second pair of trousers when you buy the suit ensures that you will always have a pair to match your jacket. Make sure that you rotate the pairs as well – if you simply put the second pair away for later use, the suit jacket may fade, which could lead to the two pieces being subtly mismatched.
2. Clean sparingly
Dry cleaning is the only way to clean a suit – but it should be done only when absolutely necessary. Every dry clean adds wear and tear, and may even fade the colour of your suit slightly. When you do take your suit in for dry cleaning, always take the jacket and trousers at the same time, to make sure that any fading is uniform.
Between dry cleans, take care of your suit by airing it on a hanger at the end of each day, before you return it to your wardrobe. This will help release trapped odours and keep the fabric fresh. Use a soft suit brush or lint roller to keep the material smooth and free of debris. Deal to any stains by spot cleaning with a damp cloth and gentle laundry liquid.
3. Store properly
If the shoulders of your suit jacket are not cared for properly, they can become lumpy and misshapen, making you look unkempt rather than polished.
Always hang your suit jacket on a hanger with wide, rounded shoulders to help it retain its shape – using a thin metal or plastic hanger could damage or distort the fabric. Trousers should be folded in half and hung over a separate hanger. When you travel, carry your suit on the hanger in a suit carrier to protect it from damage.
4. Protect your pockets
Carrying small items in your trouser or jacket pockets may be convenient, but it is not good for your suit. The weight of small items such as your cell phone, wallet or keys drags down on the fabric, leading to damage and loss of shape. It can also make you look less polished – full pockets will disrupt the lines of your suit and make you look bulkier.
Consider investing in a satchel or briefcase to carry the things you need, or minimise weight and bulk by using a money clip and carrying only essential keys.
5. Wear appropriately
A suit is an investment, which means it is worthy of consideration and care.
It is not necessary to forego all physical activity while wearing a suit, but it is a good idea to be mindful of your movements. For example, take your jacket off if you need to lift furniture or carry heavy boxes, to avoid creasing. Step into cars carefully to stop trouser seams from splitting. Keep your hands out of your pockets as much as possible to prevent the fabric stretching. Lay a napkin on your lap at mealtimes to avoid staining your trousers.
These days, classic menswear rules aren't as strict as they used to be a few decades ago. However, choosing the right kind of shirt for the right occasion is a skill every gentleman must acquire. Otherwise, we're sorry to admit that he wouldn’t be a gentleman, but instead just a guy in a wrong shirt. To avoid this unfortunate situation, one needs to know a thing or two about fabrication, cut, and, above all, the style of the shirt.
And what is one of the most important parts of a shirt’s style? That’s right, ladies and gentlemen, it's the cuff. There are a few different kinds of shirt cuffs out there, but most of them would fall into two main categories: a Single Cuff and a Double (French) Cuff.